The areas around bus stations in Latin America are not known for being upscale, we'll say, and port areas everywhere have the same rep, and this was a bus station at a port. It was near a large informal market, which seemed to extend a couple of blocks uphill. I wouldn't say it was scary, it was just not the kind of place where you want to be in for a long time carrying all your earthly goods, and with a sign around your neck saying "I'm rich" (and we foreigners all are, by comparison) and "oh, yeah, I can't run very fast because I'm carrying a house on my back").
I think the first person I was going to turn to to ask directions might have been a prostitute--the bright pink lipstick and the kissy-face look she gave me kind of pointed me in that direction. The next person I approached was a bus driver--much the smarter choice.
So I found my bus, I found my stop (with the help of a friendly policeman), and found my hotel. When I got to the address I'd written down, there was just an ordinary door with no sign outside saying it was a hotel of any kind. But I rang the bell anyway and when the owner opened the door I commented on the lack of signage he said "I don't need any, this is my home." Perhaps it was me being slow on the uptake, since I hadn't realized that the word "B&B" in the name meant that I would be staying in a private home. After all, you can call your business anything you like, can't you?
I'd have to say that the couple who run this place are the most helpful hoteliers I've run across. Before we even talked about anything like payment or keys I got sat down and was given a map, and then told in great detail where all the sights were (and which places not to go to avoid being mugged--I think he might be a bit overprotective of his guests, since my guidebooks are not so alarmist, then again, they rarely are!) Anyway, I'll exercise all due judgment.
Since it was mid afternoon by the time I got there and I hadn't eaten, I first found a restaurant and then walked around the neighbourhood a bit. A couple of observations: about every third building seems to be one of: a hotel, a restaurant, or an art shop of some kind. And those are the buildings that actually have signs! Who knows what lurks? The other thing is, there's even more "street art" than in Santiago. I wouldn't have thought that possible!
Update: I'd like to give a shout-out to my "home" here in Valparaiso, B&B La Nona. The owners, Rene and Carolina, are a fount of information not just about the city but also about other parts of Chile and are very generous with their time. They speak English and for those such as myself, slow Spanish :) The rooms are excellent (the shower is a bit "emotional"), there is use of wifi, their home computer, and the living area. Lower than posted rates may be available outside peak season.
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