Just taking the bus

If you've travelled in the developing world, nothing here will be a surprise, but if you haven't, here's how taking the bus in Lima is different from at home.

First, instead of a single bus company run by the city, there is a multiplicity of private companies. There are sometimes markings of where buses are going to stop, but it can also also be a matter of just knowing where to go. The buses come in different sizes and are usually a bit garishly decorated.



There are two employees on most buses, a driver and a conductor. The conductor has two jobs: to take your money and to act as a tout, since his bus is competing for your bum with other companies' buses. So when the bus stops, the conductor hops off (sometimes dodging other buses) and shouts out the main destinations, at least I guess that's what he's saying, since it kind of becomes a slurred chant.

So yesterday I wanted to go to the Lima suburb of Miraflores, so when the guy shouted "Miraflores", I knew he was my man. Unlike at home, you don't pay immediately as you get on, you just find a place and eventually the conductor will come looking for your fare. Some seem better than others at remembering who has paid already. When you pay you get a little wisp of a ticket, which it may or may not be important to hold on to. I saw one petulant woman just throw hers on the floor.

You pay by distance, though I haven't figured out that system yet, and I don't know if all companies charge the same...likely yes. In any case, to us the fare would seem quite cheap...my 45 minute ride to Miraflores cost 1.20 soles or around 45 cents.

The other thing is, there's a bit of Alice in Wonderland going on because the names of streets are not always what they're called. The other day I my friend told me to meet her at Arequipa and Cuba (and to ask the conductor to call out "Cuba"), which he did, and a good thing too, because the street sign said Avenida Alejandro something.