Constant Readers: I know I haven't given you much to keep coming back lately. For a few days I was just kind of holed up in Ayacucho, being indecisive about where to go next. Now I have a bit of a plan: return to Lima for a couple of days, then head to Cusco, and hopefully some Spanish classes.
Right now I'm on the balcony of a wifi-enabled restaurant overlooking the Plaza de Armas in Ayacucho. It's the Via Via Cafe, a branch of a Belgian outfit that has hostels/restauarants on various far-flung parts of the world, nine or ten in all. I don't know what their business model is--they don't just pick tourist traps (Ayacucho certainly isn't, nor is Leon, Nicaragua). The manager here is a Belgian but the rest of the staff seem to be Peruvian and they serve Peruvian food that seems more or less authentic to my uneducated palate. And I'm fairly confident that they won't poison me. There is an annoying tendency to play Western pop music in the background, and not always the good stuff either (think: Village People) but for the moment at least they're playing Peruvian stuff, and folkloric at that.
The other good thing about being here is that it keeps me out of the rain. The sierra rainy season, which only flirted with us for the first week I was here, seems to be in earnest. And, since I'm leaving today, I don't have a hotel to go back to. Hopefully I tipped the staff enough the last time I was here that they won't get antsy about me taking up valuable space; well, the balcony has at least one empty table so I'm not actually driving anyone away.
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